The boxes are opened and the parts are displayed. The instructions are always hard to read and one needs to think ahead as how the unit it going to work with regards to how the various parts are to be fitted together.
Three hours later, the unit is assembled. If I was to assemble another same unit, I recon I could do it half the time.
The shower pole attachment is broken and the bath need resealing around the edge.
So off the B&Q to source a new fitting. This can take a bit of time and persistance to find the right item & at a reasonable cost. There where items costed at over £50 and not always the best solution.
The seal around the bath also needs attention, as you can see the seal is messy and probably not affective. So now I have the old shower fitting removed from the wall I will remove the old silicon and clean up the area, this is quite a time consuming job as all the old silicon should be removed.
There that looks better now the new silicon is added. Now to fit the new shower pole.
Great job! Now let’s give everything a clean.
So, time to remove all the loose bricks and sort the background out. Having found all the bricks and cleared the base out, I re laid the background and levelled with sharp sand. The edging bricks are to be set in cement to hold everything in place.
There that’s better. I later added some top soil to cover over the sand, just need some grass seed and all will look fantastic in the summer.
This is an interesting job, the wardrobe from Ikea is 30 mm higher than the floor to ceiling height.
So, we have to cut the sides of the unit from the base end so we can get it in to fit between the floor and the ceiling. Luck is on our side as there is an area under the baseboard we can cut, which will mean there will be no base plinth cover at the front but that’s okay because the base will be 12 mm off the floor anyway.
Also, to bear in mind that the unit will have to be assembled upright, not lying on the floor, as we will not be able to tilt it back to the wall, the height of the top side will hit the ceiling.
Having assembled the unit we cut away the skirting to the edge of where the wardrobe is going to be positioned so the back of the unit is flush with the wall. We now secure the unit to the wall with the system Ikea provides checking the vertical level first.
There, the job is done. It actually took longer to fit, assemble all the shelving, draws and internal units than to assemble and fit the wardrobe carcass itself!
Now that’s a flush fit!
Here I am going up, I have a standoff attached and a person to be at the base of the ladder to add weight and stability.
Right, let’s get those gutter cleared.
The opening through this door space is an odd size. Normal a door is 760 mm wide at the smallest, height 1920 ish.
Here is the old door in white and one that I have got from DIY in Middlesbrough.
Right, time to measure up and start making the new door fit. These doors are boarded and hollow with a stuffing inside. The lock and handle is usually marked on the one side so make sure you have the right side for the hinges. I am going to cut and trim the side that the door will hang from, leaving the block for the lock and handle on the other side.
It looks like this door has the lock and handle block on both sides of the door because there is the block fixed to the trim I’ve just cut.
Now that I have removed the laminate from the edging trim that existed on the door, I am now going to use these to fit back in to make the edging of the door with wood glue & screws, predrilling so as not to split the wood.
There, having wiped down with a damp sponge removed the excess glue the door is now made to size.
Time to fit and hang it.
Fitted the door handle and yes, this door does have a block on both sides, but not all do, so always check which side the lock is on it will say on the top of the door frame.
So let’s get to it, take some measurements and get the timber from JT Atkinson builders merchants. Having removed the old boards from the front I can see that the timber frame is also rotten along the base and up the 3×2 stud work. I will have to cut the old and replace with new.
The 3×2 frame is rotten along the base and up the vertical studs.
There now it’s time to fit the boards to match in with the existing Shiplap.
Job done, including using up the leftover shiplap board and replacing it on the door to match in.
Now to get the rotten timber to the skip. All in a day’s work.
Enappsys Ltd have moved to their new office and have rather a lot of office furniture to assemble as it’s all flat pack! Over 50 items to assemble, tables & office chairs, cabinets & cupboards. Well, let’s make a start.
Two solid days to get this lot built. Job done.
Got shot of all the cardboard packing & boxes aswell. Good job!
Time to give this front porch entrance a make over.
Wood on frame needs sorting
Window and front entrance to town house in Norton.
A bit of filling required to window using rapid set ready mix cement.
Looking much smarter.
The customer wants the shed door replaced with a new one. It turns out it’s cheaper to make one, custom build.
So let’s get to work. Having taken the measurements of the shed door opening, l go to get the materials from MKM.
I make the door using tung n groove plain sawn timber glueing the lengths together and clamping them tightly.
Now book in a convenient time with the customer to hang the door.
There is a few more things to do like fitting the bracing to the door and the lock. But also l can cut and trim the door to fit the shed opening as l know its not square.
There, job done. Just need to weather proof the timber.
This hole, to in a stud wall needs to be filled. The best way to deal with this is cut out a square area around the hole. As the wall has a cavity there is nothing for any filler to stick to.
Once l have cut out and removed l fix some wooden battens behind, this will give a support for the new plaster board to fit into. Now a quick coat of plaster. Once the plaster is dry give a sanding to prep for painting, you won’t even know it was there.
Handyman services for the small jobs that others won’t do.
The customer wanted to tile around the kitchen cooking hob.
So here we go. I’ve made a start having prepared the area.
Next to carry on and leave for the adhesive to dry.
Now time to grout, which is a light grey and finished off with a trim to go around the edge.
Nice job, looks great and the customer is very pleased.
In the box, the components for the Home Multi Gym. The instructions mention that it should take 4/5 hours to assemble. So start the stopwatch!
In the box.
Five hours, not too bad, better to do a good job than to rush.
Completed in five hours
The landlord wanted the old fireplace covered over. After removing the old fire unite the opening is revealed.
Plasterboard is measured out & used to cover the opening fixing to the sides.
A skim plaster is applied and leveled to the existing fireplace surface and left to dry out. Four coats of white paint are then painted over.
There, job is done. Just need to finish off the hearth. I would advise adding an air vent to allow the chimney to breathe and prevent damp.
Just need a paint of stain and weather sealing. Looking smart.
Having taken the chimney down in the roof, we make a start on removing the chimney breast from the 1st floor inorder to take out the brick wall. A dusty dirty job but someone’s got to do it.
The old broken tiles on this fireplace need replacing.
So let’s get to it and remove the old tiles and cut out some of the cement to make some depth.
Having removed any high rises we’re ready to add and level off the adhesive and place the tiles with a 5mm gap around each tile.
Leaving the adhesive to dry for 24 hours, we’re ready to grout, which the customer wants in black.
After a sponging over lightly to remove any excess grout, l leave to dry a little more before running a 15mm rounded trowel over the grout between the tiles.
With a dry cloth time to polish off. Job done. Looks great.
